I Cooked Rudolph


Maybe I have some sort of subconscious issue with religious holidays. Earlier this year, I cooked rabbit for Easter. Monday night, I cooked Rudolph. It wasn't actually reindeer, just venison that we bought from our butcher. The Easter bunny thing was intentional, but Jess and I purchased the D'ARTAGNAN venison tenderloin oblivious to the irony. Only on the drive home did it dawn on us that we were about to pan-sear a Christmas icon.

Let's talk about the sides first.... We had a simple, fresh-herb salad with balsamic vinaigrette. We made the vinaigrette with some really nice, syrupy balsamic vinegar that we also picked up at the butcher. Delicious.

Even more delicious were the Baked Cheese Grits. I've made these once before, and they came out too soupy. This time I figured out the issue. The recipe calls for "Old-Fashioned" grits. Here in Boston, I have only been able to find quick grits and instant grits. Instant grits are an abomination, so I bought quick grits. What I hadn't taken into account previously was that quick grits require less liquid than old-fashioned grits. It's a 5-1 grits to water ratio for old fashioned, but just a 4-1 ratio for quick. This adjustment fixed the soupiness, obviously. Less obvious was another tweak I made. Instead of cooking the grits in water, I used chicken stock. YUM! I think even my showers would be improved if I could use chicken stock instead of water.

Now for the deer.... Deer meat is dark red, almost like liver, with very little intramuscular fat. The tenderloin is especially lean, and will become tough if cooked the slightest bit too long. Everyone recommends pan searing the tenderloins, whole, just until rare and then slicing them into medallions. I opted for medium-rare, and thanks to Jess' advice, they were cooked to the perfect temperature. For an added touch of decadence, I used ghee instead of plain butter. It's basically clarified butter and its advantage over ordinary butter is that you can get it really hot without it smoking. I also prepared "Hunter's Sauce" to accompany the medallions. I haven't eaten a lot of game, so I thought this would be a wise move.

I'm going to be blunt here. Deer is gamy. I'm not talking lamb magnitude gamy. I'm talking third-world-country gamy. My first few bites were very enjoyable, but the gaminess seemed to accumulate in my mouth. As the meat cooled, it tasted funkier still. As we tried to enjoy the meal, I pondered aloud what dog might taste like. Jess speculated that he had probably been served dog, secretly, during his travels overseas. At the end of the meal, we concluded that venison just isn't our cup of tea. It definitely does not taste like chicken. But Cheese Grits cooked in chicken broth ROCK! Recipe follows in next post...

Recipe: BAKED CHEESE GRITS

1/4 cup butter (1/2 stick)
1/2 cup chopped onion
1 garlic clove, minced
1 1/4 cups quick grits (or 1 cup old fashioned)
4 3/4 cups (or 5 cups if using old fashioned) chicken stock
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups grated Vermont cheddar
1/2 cup milk
2 eggs, beaten
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Melt butter in large saucepan. Cook onion until softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute. Add chicken broth and bring to a boil. Stir in grits and salt. Cover and reduce heat to simmer, stirring occasionally. Cook 8-10 minutes for quick grits, 20-30 minutes for old-fashioned. Consistency should be roughly like runny oatmeal. Remove from heat.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter 2 quart souffle dish. Add cheese, stirring until melted and blended. In a small bowl, whisk together milk, eggs, and cayenne. Stir gradually into grits. Transfer grits to souffle dish and smooth the top. Bake 50-60 minutes; toothpick inserted in center should come out clean. Let cool at least 10 minutes before serving.